Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
Friday, September 10, 2010
Friday, August 27, 2010
Thursday, July 1, 2010
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
Pop Up Blinds
A hunting blind is a cover device for hunters, designed to reduce the chance of detection.
Native Americans created blinds by digging pits in the earth and covering them with tree limbs. There are many varieties of blinds¬ out there on the market, but they all serve the same purpose: concealment. Hunting blinds have come a long way from digging a hole, to building a tree stand, ladder tree stands, to the new state of the art Pop Up blinds.
When considering what blind to buy you need to consider the type of hunting you will use it for. For the nature for this discussion let’s just talk about the Pop Up blinds.
Pop Up Blinds offer cover not only from the game you are hunting but also the weather you are hunting in. They are light weight and portable and offer you the ability to change the spot you are hunting with ease.
www.shipsinaday.com offer Bigfoot Camo blinds that are the industry leader in hunting concealment. With shoot through windows Pop Up design and versatile for any kind of hunting, a Bigfoot Pop up blind may be the only blind you need. These blinds can be used for Deer, Fowl, Turkey or any big game. So check out www.shipsinaday.com for the Bigfoot Camo hunting blinds.
Ok now we are back; PLEASE, PLEASE set your blind up before you go out in the woods. Get familiar with all the parts and how they work. You don’t want to be thrashing around trying to set your blind up and then expect to bring home a trophy buck…its not going to happen! If you need help there are how to videos at www.shipsinaday.com
¬Once you're out in the hunting grounds, look for a location that already has a naturally hidden feel to it -- like a small patch of trees or an incline. You can use tree stumps, hollows or large boulders as a good starting point. Gather tree limbs and leaves to use as cover. By breaking off fresh limbs instead of gathering dead ones from the ground, you can help to cover your own scent. When the limbs are broken, they will release their scent into the area. The key¬ to using a hunting blind is to find a proper location. Placing a blind out in the middle of an otherwise empty field will be quite obvious, too the game you are hunting and everyone else! You also need to consider the natural behavior of your game when you are choosing a location for your blind. Try to place your blind where animals will naturally wander in search of food or water.
So that is it, get your Bigfoot blind and get out there….Happy Hunting!
Big news if you are a distributor or want to be one go to www.AHIdistribution.com and get wholesale prices.
Bike Trainer
Bike trainers are fast becoming a great way to enhance your work out. Wither you are adding more cardio to your routine or you are getting ready for your first century a bike trainer may be the right choice for you. Rain, sleet, snow or your wife saying you can’t go for a ride, getting your self ready for a century is a big commitment. Here are a few of the routines I have used to help myself get ready for the Six Gap century.
Force reps: Warm up for 10 to 15 minutes, then cranks the resistance down until it's very heavy (as if you were climbing a steep hill.) Drive the pedals down for 20 to 30 pedal strokes, concentrating on producing force on the down stroke. Don't increase cadence; keep cadence very slow. Recover for five minutes and repeat. You can perform four to eight force reps per workout.
Leg tension: Trains strength endurance. Envision climbing a long, steep hill. Keep your cadence in the 50 to 60 rpm range with heavy resistance. Smoothly pedal the length of the interval using good climbing form. You can perform leg tension intervals of five to 20 minutes with five to 10 minutes recovery between efforts.
Aerobic tension: Trains aerobic strength. Picture a very long, moderate climb. Keep your cadence in the 65 to 75 rpm range and your heart rate towards the top of your aerobic zone. Smoothly pedal for 20 to 60 minutes using these parameters. This workout is a lot harder than it may seem at first and is highly productive.
Power bursts: These are the first phase of power training. Using a high cadence and resistance, pedal as hard as you can for 10 seconds. At the end of the interval, your legs should be very fatigued and ready to quit on you. Recover for 10 minutes and repeat four to eight times.
Power intervals: These are more sustained and build aerobic capacity. Using a high cadence (over 100 rpm) and high resistance, pedal as hard as you can for one to four minutes. Recover for an equal length and repeat three to six times.
Endurance spinning: Perform this at 5 rpm below your maximum sustainable cadence and hold your cadence for 10 to 60 minutes. You may need to start off with a shorter duration and increase each workout.
Spin ups: Spin up quickly to your maximum sustainable cadence and then let it drop 20 rpm. Repeat this eight to 12 times
One leg spinning: This is one of my favorites, this helps you peddle in full circles. After you are warmed up clip in one leg and peddle making sure you push down and pull up with your foot to make a full circle. Do this for one minute and then change to the other side. Repeat for four to eight times per leg.
Now that you have the routines all you need now is a trainer. Prohoists and Ships in a Day have got you covered. With its internal magnet system for a quiet ride and larger-than-average 3 in. roller the Overdrive bike trainer is the only trainer you will need. Portable so you can take it with you and super stable it even includes a wheel stand for your front tire. So head on down to www.shipsinaday.com or www.prohoists.com and get this great trainer. BIG news if you are a merchant (or want to be one) you can go to www.AHIdistribution.com and get wholesale prices. See you out there!
PWC Slings
The date was the summer of 1955 and the Vincent Motorcycle Company marketed the propeller-driven 200cc Amanda Water Scooter. A few years later a Southern California inventor Clayton Jacobson II built the first known standup Jet-Ski model. Jacobson’s aluminum-hulled, rigid-hand pole unit morphed into a sit-down craft in the process of his collaboration with snowmobile manufacturer Bombardier, primarily due to the Bombardier engine. Jacobson continued development of the standup, but was not able to take his ideas to market as long as Bombardier retained the rights. When Bombardier pulled out of the market, Jacobson went straight to Kawasaki. Jacobson prototype was by this time fiberglass and sported his patented pivoting hand pole and the now-famous self-righting ability. Kawasaki and Jacobson clicked this time, and the Kawasaki Jet Ski®, the first commercially successful PWC was born.
Over the years, PWC's have changed from short lightweight stand up models to 12', 4 passenger, screaming fast, floating couches. But what is amazing is that the PWC lifting slings have not evolved with the new huge PWCs. That is until Prohoists developed one of the largest, longest and strongest PWC slings on the market. The 1500 lb pwc sling with its super strong 2” wide and 4’ long polyester web straps (one of the longest in the market) offers more stability for longer hulls.Prohoists offers several models to fit the original short lightweight jet skis of the 1980's or the latest model PWC's. Prohoists slings fit Kawasaki Jet Ski, Seadoo, Yamaha waverunner, and Honda. Of course all of Prohoists slings are Rubber coated for your PWC protection.
Compare the Prohoists PWC sling to others and you will soon find out not only is it one of the strongest slings, but also one of the best priced! So mosey on over to www.prohoists.com or to www.shipsinaday.com and check out this and all the great products there. If you are a distributor or want to be one go to www.AHIdistribution.com and get wholesale prices.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Bike Repair Stands
Let’s face it, its tough out there. You have had to cut back on your lattes, maybe even cutting out going to the movies. Maybe you are riding your bike more and you are in need of doing some repairs to your bike. There are How-to-Books on “Do it your self bike repair”, but one thing a book won’t have is a work stand for use as you repair your bike. Let’s look at the different types of bicycle stands and what to look for before you purchase one.
When considering which bike work or repair stand to purchase there are a few elements that should not be overlooked. First your budget may be the predominant factor in deciding which type of cycle work stand you ultimately purchase. Bike stands range in price from $50 on up toward $300. Once your budget has been determined, it’s time to dive in and see what features are most important and cannot be compromised.
The first feature we want to look at is how stable is the bike repair stand? The last thing you want to worry about while you are working on your bike is if the stand will fall over or not. Let’s face it, who wants their $3,000 bike to fall over on them while they are doing a repair job; any takers?
The next feature we will look at is portability. For many people the ability to bring their stand with them as they go on a road trip is important. Most of the portable style cycle stands are actually more expensive and sometimes less sturdy as well.
Clamp quality is a big concern as well. The professional grade bicycle work stand options have the best quality clamps. You need to consider how big your down tube is and can the clamp be easily adjusted to fit any size bike that you may need to work on.
This may seem like a lot to consider but your in luck, I have the answer! Prohoists Bike repair Stands. These stands feature a large spring loaded clamp that fit most down tubes. They come in a sturdy work shop model and a foldable model. These stands are light weight and strong, capable of holding up to 90 lbs! Affordable….you bet!! I wont even tell you the price because you wouldn’t believe me. What you need to do is go to www.prohoists.com and see for your self. Good luck and happy riding!
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
Still Shot2 soft box Video/ Photography Light Diffuser
SOFTBOX LIGHT DIFFUSER ASSEMBLY
Assembling the Still Shot2 soft box can be a little tricky, not to worry though we have you covered. Just follow these simple steps and you will be done in no time. You will need a 3 foot by 3 foot table for work space.
What’s included in the Still Shot2 Light Diffuser Soft Box? Glad you asked! Your kit includes Outer Skin, Steel Rods, Speed Ring, Inner Diffuser, and Outer Diffuser.
Let’s Get Going With Step 1:
Unfold the outer skin and insert the speed ring. Just put the edge of the skin into the groove of the speed ring. Make sure the holes are in line to receive the rod ends. Now insert one of the rod ends into the capture pocket of the outer skin. Next put the other end into the the speed ring capture hole. Now do the opposing side, put the rod through the pocket and into the speed ring capture hole. Pull the outer skin tight and with pressure on the rod pull the Velcro flap over the rod end. The other side is done in the same way. For the last rod you may need to twist the steel rod a bit to make it fit. It will be a very tight fit!
Your Still Shot2 soft box Video light Diffuser is almost done! Next step is the inner diffuser.
The inner diffuser is optional, it does not substantially improve dispersion of the light but it will reduce the light output. Installing the inner diffuser is a simple matter of attaching the corner Velcro to the Velcro tabs inside the soft box.
Start with one corner then the opposing corner and finally the last 2 corners. Use only about ½ of the Velcro tab on the soft box outer skin, leaving space between the diffuser and the side of the soft box. The inner diffuser does not fit tight against the side of the soft box. There is a gap of about 1” for ventilation.
The outer diffuser is also optional; you could successfully use the soft box with only the inner diffuser. The outer diffuser fits over the edge of the outer skin and there are Velcro attachments all around.
Well that is it! Now attach the Still Shot2 Light Diffuser Soft Box to one of our Still Shot2 Studio Lights and you are ready to take professional pictures or videos.
You may still be confused…don’t worry we have your back…Just click the link to watch a step by step video of the Still Shot2 Soft Box Video light Diffuser
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11Ai8P88Y2Y
Visit www.stillshot2.com or www.prohoists.com for all your photography needs. Until next time, be safe out there.
Monday, January 11, 2010
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Hanging Wall Board Part Two
Hanging Wall Board Part Two:
Last time we talked it was about hanging sheetrock, wallboard or gypsum board on your ceilings, now its time to move forward and finish up the room by hanging the walls. Of course I’m assuming that all electrical, phone, plumbing, cable and insulation have been installed and inspected. Building codes vary in different areas so, if you have any questions call your local building inspector.
If your house or project is framed correctly; your wall studs should be on 16" centers. This means that starting in the corner of the room there should be a stud every 16". But don't count on this! If you do not have a stud every 16” your sheet rock will end between studs. You do not want this to happen. If the end of the gypsum board fails to land on a stud you will need to put in "dead wood" so that you have something to screw or nail the board to. This is simply a piece of wood that can be added to the stud so that the rock end lands on it. Your sheets of rock should fit so that each end can be screwed or nailed to a stud. Have I said this enough? It's very important that your sheetrock ends are nailed to a stud or a piece of deadwood; otherwise the end would be more apt to break or buckle.
The supplies you will need are the same as with your ceiling install. They are: a utility knife (with several sharp blades, the sharper the blade the easier it is to cut), tape measure, pencil, square (a T-square can also be helpful), a key-hole saw, screw-gun, hammer, sheet rock nails and lastly a Prohoists Dry wall lift. In the past, owning a lift was not an option but with the Prohoists Dry wall lift we give you dependability with affordability. Check out www.prohoists.com for our complete line of lifts.
A Dry wall lift works on upper wall sheets just as well as it does on ceilings.
Now cut your sheet rock to fit desired length.
Hanging tip:
You have heard the saying to “measure twice and cut once” but when it comes to sheet rock you need to:” Measure Tight but Cut Loose!”
Putting sheetrock up and then taking it down to shave an edge that won’t fit is a waste of time and energy especially if you’re working alone. Instead, subtract about 1/4 inch from your measurements. It’s easier to fill slight gaps with joint compound than to struggle with a tight fit.
Now that your drywall or gypsum board is cut, lock your Prohoists Dry wall lift and hoist one end of the drywall sheet up to the support hook—finish side down. Some help here would be nice so get a friend or brother- in- law to lift the other end of the sheet up and slide it onto the second hook. Lift slowly and smoothly—abrupt or jerky handling can pop the front edge of the drywall off the hook.
Hanging tip:
After loading the drywall, push the lift to the wall, position the sheet, tip the top edge against the wall and crank it snugly against the ceiling.
Nail off or use a screw gun to attach the sheet rock and you got it! Just repeat these steps for the rest of the room.
Last Hanging tip:
If you have ceiling and walls to hang; the order to hang will be ceiling; upper walls; then lower walls. If you have just walls to hang then hang the upper sections first then the lower. After you have hung all of the upper sections of the walls, use your pencil to mark the location of the studs on the upper pieces of rock. This will keep you from having to hunt for them once the lower sections are covered with sheetrock. Happy hanging and remember to check out www.Prohoists.com See you next time!
Friday, January 8, 2010
How to install a Prohoists flagpole
“Oh, say can you see by the dawn's early light”- Its time to raise “Old Glory”…What’s that? You don’t have a Prohoists Flagpole? Well your in luck, just run on over to www.prohoists.com . We have a GREAT selection of commercial grade flag poles.
Let’s talk about how to install that new Prohoists residential, in ground flag pole. This process will take two days because you need to have curing time for the cement. Don’t let this scare you; it is simple enough that even your husband can do it!
Here is a list of the materials you will need: posthole diggers, shovel, and four ½ “pieces of rebar (you can get this at any home center) three bags of cement mix (get these while you’re at the home center), wheel barrow, level and of course a Prohoists flagpole.
Day One:
The first thing you need to do is pick out the location for your Prohoists Aluminum Flag pole. This should be a location that is free from under ground wires, pipes and cables. Check your phone book for the Cable locating Service in your area. Also make sure there are no overhead wires because you will be raising a New Beautiful Prohoists flagpole.
Ok, you have selected the location you need to begin digging the hole. This hole should be 18” x18” and 24” deep. Next mix the concrete in your wheel barrow and fill the hole. After the hole is full you need to add the ½” rebar. Just add a piece in each corner about 2” from the sides. Insert the sleeve on the bottom pole. (The bottom pole is the one that has the holes in it to attach the cleat) Now put the sleeve into the middle of the cement while using the pole to help push and keep straight. Make sure to leave about ½ to ¾ of the sleeve out of the cement. With the pole still in the sleeve, take your level and make sure the pole is level in all directions. You can take the pole out and let the cement dry over night. Ok... Now the hard part is over.
Day Two:
Hopefully all is dry! You’re in the Home stretch- Just a few steps to go. Attach the cleat to the bottom pole, run the rope through the pulley, attach the pulley to the top pole (the top pole is the one that has two of the same ends) and put all the poles together. Space out your carabiners the distance of your flag and make a square knot in the rope for each carabiner.
Now raise the pole, again make sure there are no over head wires! Place the pole into the sleeve. Attach the Flag to the carabiners and... Raise your USA flag. Tie off the rope to the cleat and enjoy your New Prohoists Flagpole with United States flag.
A how to video of this installation is available at You Tube?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXPZOlW1J6E
Remember to check out www.prohoists.com for more blogs and how to videos.
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
Hanging drywall is hard work, especially when it comes to hanging it over your head.
But with a little time, patience and practice and a few tools you can do it yourself. Of course, I can't give you every answer to every situation that you might encounter; but I can give you a few of the basics. The rest will be trial and error; but you will do fine with these basics under your belt.
Hanging your own sheetrock, drywall or gypsum board can save you a lot of money, but in the interest of time let’s concentrate just on hanging sheetrock over your head.
Before we start there are some tools that will make the job easier. A utility knife (with several sharp blades, the sharper the blade the easier it is to cut), tape measure, pencil, square (a T-square can also be helpful), a key-hole saw, screw-gun, hammer, sheet rock nails and lastly a Prohoists Dry wall lift. In the past, owning a lift was not an option but with the Prohoists Dry wall lift we give you dependability with affordability. Check out http://www.prohoists.com/ for our complete line of lifts.
Ok, now that the commercial is done, back to our project! Sheetrock is heavy so it's not really a one person job. I suggest that you get a friend or brother-in-law to help.
I’m assuming here that all framing, insulation and electrical has been done and inspected if you have any questions call your local building inspector.Starting in a corner, measure from the wall to the truss that best matches where your sheet rock will end. All sheet rock must land on a truss to avoid any buckling.
After you assemble your prohoists lift, release the catch on the wheel, and crank it up and down a few times to make sure it’s working smoothly. Cut your sheet rock to fit desired length. Then lock the lift and hoist one end of the drywall sheet up to the support hook—finish side down. Now, get your soon to be ex friend or brother- in- law to lift the other end of the sheet up and slide it onto the second hook. Lift slowly and smoothly—abrupt or jerky handling can pop the front edge of the drywall off the hook. Now turn the lift flat and rise to the ceiling. Nail off or use a screw gun to attach the sheet rock and you got it! Just repeat these steps for the rest of the room.
Our Prohoists Lift will work on upper wall sheets just as well as it does on ceilings.
But that is for another blog, remember go to http://www.prohoists.com/ and check out our products, How to Videos and blogs.
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